Tuesday, March 10, 2015

Just call it...Sani…

Sanikiluaq across the 'Bay'
…most of the Inuks do. The full name is Sanikiluaq. It is the last of the “communities we serve” and is in a completely different time zone. In fact, they are currently on Eastern Daylight Saving time while we here in Rankin Inlet are on Central Daylight Saving time since early Sunday morning when we switched our clocks forward.

Being the southernmost community in all of Nunavut, it is only 150 kilometers (93 miles) from the shores of NUNAVIK, Quebec. Not only is the community the most southernly, it is also the most easterly of the Kivalliq region of NUNAVUT located on the north coast of Flaherty Island in Hudson Bay.

It is still the arctic there, as no trees grow and temperatures are often very cold and accompanied by strong winds. Located in the heart of Hudson Bay in the Belcher Islands, Sanikiluaq is an Inuit community of some 850 residents. It is the only permanent settlement in this entire archipelago, which is a group of 1,500 islands spread over 3,000 square kilometres (1,158 square miles). 

The Hamlet's Crest
The hamlet is named after a legendary Inuk person who once lived here named Sandy Kiluaq. He was an adopted boy who lived in hard times and grew up to become the best hunter and best provider in the region, a hero to his community, so they named it after him. 'Home of Sandy Kiluaq'.

The terrain near Sanikiluaq is composed of numerous rocky cliffs that tower to 155 metres (509 feet) above sea level. Many of the smaller islands provide special breeding grounds for numerous species of migratory seabirds, ducks and geese. The coastal waters contain an abundance of seals, walruses and beluga whales. Expert hunting and fishing is a traditional lifestyle here, as is sea kayaking and soapstone carving.

The famous water truck supplying most hamlets in KIVALLIQ
Thomas Wiegand of the Hudson Bay Company led an exploration party from Fort George, Québec (Chisasibi Cree Nation) to the Belcher Islands in the 1840s, but he did not stay the winter. When caribou disappeared from the islands in the late 1800s, the women started sewing winter parkas from eider duck skins. The men expanded their knowledge of the ice fields, earning great respect for their kayaking skills.
Robert Joseph Flaherty and his crew arrived here on a prospecting expedition in 1913. They were the first 'qallunaat' ('people with low bushy eyebrows' — white people, in Inuktitut) to winter here. Flaherty brought along a movie camera and later he became famous for his documentary film titled 'Nanook of the North' (1922). The island is, of course, named after him.
The fine art of Sanikiluaq

Grass Basket Craftwork
The Government of Canada founded two settlements here in 1960: North Camp and South Camp.

5" Black Basking Walrus by Johnny Appaqaq - Inuit Carver

The community of Sanikiluaq was created in 1971 when the federal government consolidated its services and relocated all the buildings and inhabitants of the southern settlement into the northern one. The economy is largely based on subsistence hunting, fishing, plus arts and crafts.

The indigenous ancestors of the local Inuit people inhabited this area for many centuries. They arrived there from the mainland region of northern Québec. As evidenced by the numerous archaeological sites found scattered across the archipelago, the ancient Dorset and Thule cultures both lived on these islands.
    Dorset Culture ('Tuniit' or 'Sivullirmiut'): 500 BC to    1500  AD
     Thule Culture (Proto-Inuit): 1000 AD to 1600 AD
     Inuit Culture (Eskimo): 1600 AD to present-day.

The archipelago first came to the attention of European outsiders when the British explorer Henry Hudson spotted these islands in 1610. After wintering further south in James Bay, his crew mutinied in 1611. Cast adrift, Hudson and his son were never seen again.

The natural resources of Sanikiluaq owe much to its geographic location. As with many northern islands, the weather is noteworthy for its sudden winter storms and dramatic drops in temperature. Travellers to the island should take this into account.

The modern Inuit 'sport'
As I’ve stated before, this country we live in, is vast, it’s taken two trips here to realize just how vast Canada really is. I have developed a deeper respect for those early explorers, who without modern conveniences and navigational aids were able to traverse the Arctic in search of the northwest passage.

At this point, I’m eagerly awaiting the news this summer, of the exploration of one of Franklin’s missing ships found in the past year. All Canadians should be proud of the people of the north. They, too, are proud Canadians and their contributions to our culture are reflected when you look at the art, the crafts, the music and, from what appears to be here in the north, the 2 favourite past times…Bingo and…Hockey.

…Coral Harbour…Awaits


Coral Harbour almost halfway to the Nunavut's Capital 'Iqaluit'
Before you think you are heading to the sunny south…let me warn you. The thoughts of waving palms give way to harsher realities. The hamlet of Coral Harbor, Nunavut is unlike anything that resembles the tropics. The community is one of two, that we service, located on an island. The name of the settlement in INUTITUT is called “Salliiq” which means “large flat island(s) in front of the mainland” and is surrounded by fossilized coral in the surrounding waters. It can refer to all inhabitants from the island.


Coral Harbour is home to almost 850 inhabitants. With an FM
station (101.9 on the dial), up to date communication is available for the residents. The hamlet council, like all the other communities, is responsible for garbage, water delivery and sewage pump outs. Costs are offset by federal funds distributed by territorial disbursement.

 
The original population was wiped out by Scottish whalers in the early 1900's bringing typhus, a disease from which, the locals had no protection. Only one woman and two children were removed alive before being transferred out. The woman later died. In 1925, the Hudson's Bay Company established a trading post at the present site of Coral Harbour by combining secondary posts from Chesterfield Inlet and Coats Island. The traders brought with them Inuit from Baffin Island, northern Quebec and Keewatin to repopulate the area.
Every 'QUAD' is known as a Honda,
in Rankin Inlet, and throughout Nunavut


The entire area of Southhampton Island is about the same size as Switzerland but getting around the island can be easy enough. Dog Sled, snow machine, and Hondas are used the most. Honda is a “term” used in Nunavut describing those four wheeled “quad” ATV’s that you see scurrying about here. To us southerners, we would use the term ‘quads’…while the locals use the term ‘honda’ no matter who the manufacturer really is.


Of course, as an island you have your choice of arrival: by boat for some of the year or by plane all year round. The airport (YZS) is almost 16 kilometers (11 plus miles) from the town so again having someone meet your plane has its advantages. It can be a long, cold, and sometimes dark walk. The runway is 5,000 feet (1526Meters) and gravel based. Most of the smaller runways in communities in Nunavut are made of gravel, a point that I failed to make a few times now.


Three airlines service the area. Both, Calm Air and First Air but also KIVALLIQ AIR which services many of the communities, mostly for cargo. Those goods not arriving by container ship or barge from Churchill, Manitoba or from Montreal, have to be shipped in by air…a vital link that I cannot stress enough in these blogs.
The Coral Harbour INUKSHUK, the stone here is different.
A little known fact is that just outside Coral Harbour, an American military air base was built in 1941 as a staging point for aircraft being ferried to Europe during World War II. The site later became a military training area, then a weather observation point, before becoming the current municipal airport.


Coral Harbour is one of the best places in Nunavut to see marine wildlife. The nearby Coats Island is a resting place for walruses. The East Bay Migratory Bird Sanctuary and the Harry Gibbons Bird Sanctuary are a must for bird watchers. Snow geese, Tundra swans, Sandhill cranes and other species migrate to the area in the spring.


Despite the harsh climate there is plentiful wildlife around the island. Among some of the species found there are walruses, polar bears, barren-ground caribou, ringed seals, gyrfalcons, and (rarely) peregrine falcons.

Coral Harbour is the home to many artisans who work their wonder in ivory, whalebone, duffle, print, soapstone and seal skin. Here, people are able to enjoy the traditional as well as modern livelihoods.

The beauty of the area awaits your presence. Just remember, on this island time stands still...you don't fall back...and this week they didn't spring ahead. If you take up residence, in C.H., you won't have to change your clocks,...since there is “No daylight saving time” in this harbour !