The Cold & The Beautiful

Coming home...

Remnants from the winter of 2014-15 April 1st

That mere thought drives people. It rekindles relationships and is a focus for the many, who are away. I am no exception. During the past 2 weeks, since I arrived back in Niagara, I've had a number of people checking up on me...online, in person, by phone and at the store. It's been quite interesting. I've been quoting the current days temperature (anywhere from -32C  to -8 )...along with "I'm thawing nicely, thank you".

Niagara's temperature have been quite balmy from what I was used to for 7 weeks, and when I arrived home I still had remnants of our local February and March drifts in the shade of my backyard. Those have since evaporated and a dried brown grass covering remains that, in the next few weeks, will return to its glorious green and need a cutting soon, thereafter.

After the big blizzard,  the hard packed snow drifts were everywhere

There's always an adjustment period after an adventure. A time when you return to some comforts...the things you've been accustomed to. I've always said the best thing about world travel is the return to Canada and an appreciation of the special life we lead here, especially in Niagara. The fact we have seemingly unlimited and unrestricted drinking, bathing and fresh water that surrounds this peninsula, is lost only those who take it for granted.

While visiting most parts of Canada, you tend to appreciate the vistas that are usually attached to vast quantities of oceans, lakes and rivers. Over the years, My wife and I have been blessed to be able to travel quite extensively. Our travels inside this massive country have been primarily Ontario, Quebec and east coast with a couple of short excursions in Vancouver. To date, we have not visited the Yukon and North West Territories, nor Alberta and Saskatchewan. That, I hope will change within the year.

The dogs enjoy fresh snow...just like everywhere else

This week I've had some time to reflect on the "Rearctic Tour" of 2015. What I've gained from the experience, cannot be measured easily. First, and I think the most important, is a further appreciation of the vastness of this country...It's the size...and the history of its exploration. When you really sit down and think about what those early explorers had to endure, to even map these lands, I can't help but feel in awe. Couple that with their means of transport and the navigational tools of their day, it is amazing that we know so much...or do we really?

The hardships that people endure in  their day to day life, is probably the second most amazing thing learned. For centuries, the 'people of the north' have lived in one of the harshest of climates on the earth. Their winters are not only three months as designated on a calendar. Their summers are a stark contrast and I dream to visit during those times at some point in the future to appreciate the difference.

Modern conveniences coupled with traditional ways, allow the dweller's in the Arctic to live a longer life, which in itself can increase problems. While nursing homes and extended assisted living are difficult to find and expensive here in the south, it seems simply non-existent in most of the northern settlements. Family still look after family. Promises of better care and more focused care, like everywhere, are dollar dependent and the "Elders" remain on the sidelines with their needs.

The vista looking out over the frozen bay.

The north is no different than the south, except the people. They are interested but skeptical of strangers...with good reason...given their history. They are sharing. They are knowledgeable. They are eager to teach and want to learn more. They are quick to offer advice and help. Those are the qualities of the many Inuit that I had the good fortune of meeting....and it rubs off on those who visit, those who stay for a while, and those who settle there.

The sun rises, a new day and a young territory 

In Rankin Inlet, Nunavut Territory, Canada there are problems like everywhere else. Solutions are slow, expensive, and sometimes not available, just like the rest of our nation. But there, the people
are the difference. I call it "the warmth of the people". 

You dress for the weather!

It took seven years for me to be able to return to the land 'up north'. The experience, the learning, the sharing, the camaraderie, the highs and lows proved....LIFE ENDURES and PEOPLE ADAPT. A few have asked, how I was able to cope while in the Arctic for seven weeks. We encountered three blizzards (one for three nights), bitter cold temperatures and high winds, rotating power outages, water disruptions, closures of services and countless other hurdles.

How did we survive? In one word... the "people". If you ever travel north, be adaptable and ready for change at every instance. It's the "way of the north" and describes the crazy things that you can experience on your journey. Through it all, we survived...and people remain...and they too survive. 

I've returned to Niagara, but I can still see those vistas in my mind (and some photos). I have the memories that this blog has documented along the way which lead me back to the title of this edition, "The Cold & The Beautiful".  To survive the Arctic, there are two things you must know.

 "The people are the warmth...you dress for the weather".

 Thank you, Rankin Inlet!!!!

The sun sets after seven weeks.... after 7 years!

CALM AIR, WINDY SKIES ... continues

Announcing RANKIN INLET AIRPORT in 3 official languages

It was 1045. I had arrived to a large crowd in the waiting area of Rankin Inlet Airport. In front of the CALM AIR counter, ahead of me were three customers...with hockey gear, heading back home, I think to Repulse Bay but maybe Whale Cove. They had been knocked out in the Bronze medal game at the weekend Atom tournament. I asked if they had a good tournament and both boys agreed.

I was next. The counter rep. greeted me, smiled and said we were delayed but offered nothing further except to say the plane was on its way. This time check in was much faster and smoother than Toronto's experience. In my hands, I had my flight info from the travel desk, got my boarding pass....which said the flight was at 11:30 (not gonna happen). No seat assignment but now it was time for the weigh in. Now down to two bags, (well I did have two helicopters to bring home), the first came in at 34. The second at 47...no overweight charges this time. Only the extra bag charge of $50 from Air Canada for the second bag. This was good.

Rankin Inlet airport terminal

Then she asked about my carry on. I said I have one plus my 'personal' bag, which carried my camera and a flash. She said we needed to weigh the carry on so they would know cargo weight. I struggled to make it appear light but the scales revealed 24...she said "that's over the allowable carry on weight".

After the big blizzard there was a single lane swath into the airport

Would I have excess baggage charges? What would I do with all this camera gear? She just said "I'll make an exception but they may have to stow it in the rear of the plane if it doesn't fit under the seat. That was it! I quietly breathed a sigh of relief. My luggage was checked, my hand luggage approved and tagged, now we needed the plane. The sun shone brightly and as is was almost midday, I left my carry ons amid the crowd and headed back out the front door of the terminal.

Two weeks ago, after the blizzard, I had visited the airport after hearing about the huge drifts that had formed at the terminal entrance gate. They were huge 12-14 feet in height with a single lane path cut through providing access to the airport. In those two weeks all evidence of the big storm was gone. I knew it had not melted but that the front end loaders had been busy moving and clearing. I moved another 500 yards down the road to the entrance at the road.

Welcome to RANKIN INLET at the airport exit....tradition of Old & New

There sits a "Welcome to Rankin Inlet" sign. It features a home town hero of sorts. Actually he's been a hometown favourite since he played in Halifax, in the Junior Hockey Tournament at Christmas in January 2003. Currently, on the roster of the New Jersey Devils, he returns to Rankin for at least one trip a year and spends some time returning to "the land" to re-establish his roots and spend some time with his dad, Barney.

My ATR just parking after arriving from Churchill

Barney signed my flag again this time. The second week in Rankin Inlet, I was invited over but never made it. Last trip I spent some time at the Tootoo house. While Rose played bingo on the radio, Barney had showed me the boy's trophy room. Hanging from the ceiling were two large canadian flags signed by everyone in Rankin Inlet and sent to Jordan for the 2003 Halifax tournament showing the support of the hamlet. From this, I thought what a great idea.

So, last trip seven years ago, I had everyone at the health centre sign a large Nunavut flag. When I arrived this time, they didn't really remember me initially, since I had been there but a month and people rotate in and out all the time. Their memories became sharper once they saw the flag and they looked for their names on that Nunavut flag. This trip I had no problem getting them to sign a larger Ontario flag, which many had never seen.

Welcome aboard...the next 7 steps to home

I got some shots of the welcome sign, then returned to the airport to find people starting to move. Had I missed the announcement? Yes, but not my flight as of yet! The yellow school bus arrived and the passengers filed out Gate 2 into the bus to be driven across the windy tarmac to the waiting ATR in the distance.. Ten minutes later, that plane was gone and another was loading...still not mine. It was well after 1220 and no plane had arrived yet from Churchill...That was soon to change but not before the next ATR was loaded and on its way to Whale Cove, again after everyone had lined up and exited Gate 2.

A landing at 1230 meant we still had a three hour trip ahead to Winnipeg, after the dual prop was gassed, loaded and ready to go. The clock was ticking, would I make my flight to Pearson? Would Air Canada be friend or foe? The overhead was garbled but enough sound to hear "loading"...and "Winnipeg"... I was ready and standing near Gate 2...It was our time!

Starboard engine on the ATR

In a few short minutes, the boarding passes were double checked with the passenger list by that same counter rep. and we made our way through the gusting winds, across the bare tarmac with a bit of swirling snow...and moved the 50 yards to the rear staircase where I climbed the final 7 steps into the fuselage.

The grey leather seats, were chilly, as was the entire aircraft. Odd, I thought since had only been n the ground for thirty minutes or so but the back hatch had been open and the cold air had been blowing inside. Once we were loaded and the hatch secure, the inside started to warm, as the engines sprung to life....It was 1315 and we were moving down the runway, soon aloft and viewing Rankin Inlet from the air as we circled and redirected south to Winnipeg.

The view from the sky enhanced to show the formations in the Snow and Ice on the Land

 My only problem, I was on the wrong side. Those on port had the great view, I was on starboard and saw the sky! Once we flattened out, I saw some great ice and snow formations on Hudson Bay as we winged south. An overhead announcement...beverage service would be followed by lunch! I decided on a Coor's Light...my sixth beer in seven weeks... My lunch arrived...arctic lasagna with fruit salad...fresh watermelon and a date square to finish. I decided to make it 7 for 7 instead. At 5 bucks each...cash sale, the best value at 24,000 feet in all of Nunavut! 

Farewell to Rankin Inlet YRT

During the flight, the attendant, explained the reason for the tardiness...on the way from Winnipeg to Churchill and then to Rankin Inlet, the aircraft had been buffeted by headwinds approaching 240 knots. No wonder they were late. Hearing that I was surprized that they had made it at all. The good news...as we neared Winnipeg...those same headwinds, for us, were tailwinds and we had made up almost a half hour.

Cargo stowed at the back of the ATR

During the last hour of the flight, there were three on board that notified the flight attendant of connecting flights, mine was the latest at 1655. The others were at 1600 or thereabouts. It might be tight for us, but we were determined and had Calm Air on our side! As the flight attendant cleared the cabin of the remnants of lunch, she told us three that she would make an announcement as we arrived at the terminal asking cooperation from those aboard to remain seated while 3 on board left to make connections.

As I have now become accustomed to, cooperation with authority remains a tradition of the north...as many on board had been through the same situation at one time or another, and true to form, remained seated while us three dashed off. No one moved as we made our way out the rear cabin door, down the steps and then were advised by ground crew to the closest entrance to the terminal.

Transitioning to more ice...less snow

I had been previously advised by our Calm Air attendant, to head to the baggage hall, go and check in at the Air Canada kiosk, get my baggage tags and boarding pass, then return to the luggage hall to grab my bags as they arrived on the carousel. The events couldn't have been "swiss timed" more accurately. Returning to the hall, my two bags were just coming onto the stainless steel belt. I grabbed them, placed them on a cart and proceeded to find the elevator to the departures level.

Back to trees and visible vegetation

At the Air Canada check in area, I was directed to the next available wicket, which took only a few moments to finalize. My new luggage tags were applied as the old ones had been immediately removed in the baggage hall. I put the newly checked bags on the belt and hoped we would all arrive in Toronto together. A quick, uneventful trip through security this time, allowed some time for a quick Tim's decaf...my first in seven weeks...It had been high test til then, but I was back south and time to return to my old routines. With thirty minutes to spare, I was checked, secured, and sitting and sipping at my new gate, anticipating a two hour trip to YYZ. Did the other guys make their Westjet connection...we can only hope!

     

Calm Air, Windy Skies

The Winnipeg Jet that stayed "home" on Tuesday.

I think I have suceeded in experiencing the north this time

I took a trip on Tuesday. That was the day I was scheduled to travel south, back to my more "normal" life. It had been seven weeks since I left my wife, snow piled high on both sides of the driveway, -15 to -20 degree days, the 11th of February. It had been seven weeks of colder temps, stronger winds and wonderful experiences.Well, let's say northern experiences, not all good but every one interesting just the same.

I had two flights scheduled, and was to leave mid-morning on the first. A four hour layover in Winnipeg ( I already knew where the Tim's was now in the airport, having been there twice already.) I was flying with CALM AIR on their new jet out of YRT (Rankin Inlet). Being a regional carrier, they don't have that arrangement with my second carrier of the day, AIR CANADA.  That's the arrangement where you can check your luggage straight on to your destination (which was to be Pearson's YYZ).

My itinerary left me ample time. A two hour flight to Winnipeg, sufficient time to collect my bags, head over to the Air Canada people on the new departures level in Winnipeg airport, check, in and get organized for that 1655 flight. Two hours later, I would be in Pearson and a couple of hours after that, home in Niagara. All seemed so simple, straight forward and workable.

This second trip to Canada's Arctic reinforced what I had learned first time around. Be prepared for change, no matter where, no matter when. The changes were about to begin.

On the way to Churchill...Calm Air 535

As I arose Tuesday morning, after having breakfast, I was watching another beautiful sunrise and said to myself and the others present..."this is going to be one beautiful day to fly". There were a few sparse clouds but the sun glistened brightly off the snow and ice out in the bay, and by 7:30 was higher in the sky than at any other time in my journey. I packed my bags and headed back across the street for my final visit to the Kivalliq Health Centre to say my last goodbyes.

In my knapsack, I carried my Ontario Flag, signed by the medical staff as they rotated in and out...and signed by those I had worked with at the health centre for the entire time. I managed to get two more signatures, from staff who had been away and were finally back. There wasn't much clear space left to sign.

Calm Air 535 finally on the way from Churchill

As I unpacked, defrocked and debooted, I signed into my Government of Nunavut account. No special notes of goodbye from them....Iqaluit was miles away across a frozen bay. I signed onto flightaware.com to check my travel status and see what time I must arrange transport to the airport for my first flight.

A closer look at my flight number and plane info showed that the jet had been replaced today by the ATR, a slower two engine prop plane. The plane was coming from Winnipeg via Churchill to Rankin Inlet. My departure time was now 11:30 and even though there would be a longer flight due to a slower speed vehicle, I still had adequate time for the layover challenges.

The Calm Air ATR arriving from one of our sister communities

Since, I didn't have to get to the airport until 1030, now I had time to help Marie with the patients that had arrived. I did the darkroom while she did the xrays. We worked our magic as I tracked, in realtime, the flight from Winnipeg to Churchill noticing that the arrival time kept getting pushed back. From Churchill it still had to travel to Rankin Inlet.

It was ten o'clock and my tracking system said that it was still on the ground in Churchill. It was ten fifteen, and same status, when I called the airline desk at YRT. She calmly explained that the flight had completed loading was just ready to take off  in Churchill and the new departure was now 12:00. Be there by 11.

I said my final goodbyes, dressed for the weather, no snow pants, no face mask, no extra hood...I had become acclimated to -24 weather. I contacted the health centre driver who met me at the hotel a few mintues later and we were loaded and off to the airport. It was 1035.

With no transient apartments available, I stayed at the Katimivak

I thanked both Cyrus and Kane, the new driver, for their assistance while in Rankin Inlet. Cyrus had originally picked me up at the airport on a snowy February 12th and had helped me move my stuff to the transient apartment once it became available. I called him my camel... explaining that he had carried the heavy stuff...and that he was the only camel I knew without humps on back, who spoke english and inuktitut. Kane was the new guy, learning the ropes, and this was my second move with him, from the apartment back to the hotel for my extended time and now to the airport.

UP NEXT:  CALM AIR, WINDY SKIES continues.....

Victor's Playground

In Winter the kids play outside, -24 plus wind chill, the drifts make great slides

When I arrived in Rankin Inlet, on February 12th, the weather was -23 in Winnipeg.. and a little colder here with a higher windchill due to the stronger winds. On Monday this week, the temperature in Rankin Inlet at noon was -28 and the windchill brought it to -44C.  In almost 7 weeks the weather hasn't changed much...but wait, it has.

The days are now 2 and a half hours longer....the sun rising at 6:30 in the a.m. and setting around around 8...but the sun is so much stronger every day.  It's the wind here that seems to keep the temps so low.

The sign announcing "VICTOR'S PLAYGROUND"

VICTOR'S PLAYGROUND

Moving through "old town" the first time on a saturday morning, a sunny bright day with those unbelievably blue skies, I happened across a snowy playground with a sign. It said "Welcome to Victor's Playground" and nothing more. It took several weeks with everything else being so new or so different, that I didn't think too much more about it until almost my last week.

You could recognize the ladder and a slide under the white stuff. There looked like teeter tooters as well. A few other pieces of equipment and at the time wondered what was there. It was surrounded by a group of houses sort of in a 'cul de sac' arrangement. The park was along the roadside, the housing was surrounding. The blue sign stood proudly proclaiming Victor's playground.

It was not the only play ground area that I recognized while in Rankin. In the new section of town (Area 6), the one where there seems to have been the most residential development, I could see a playground in behind some houses, on a raised section. It was visible from the window at the end of the hall where I was resident. That one had no sign.

A rare sight...a "lost" mitten

Awaiting warmer temps

After going through some of my photos to try and figure out what I had missed getting recorded digitally, I came across those two saturday photos...and it was time to figure who Victor was and why the playground named in his honour. I had lots of ideas but no foundation...perhaps someone young who had succumbed to a dreaded disease or someone honoured by the hamlet for their humanitarian works.

Another coffee break in the staff lounge, with no tuktu and no muktuk on the table to increase conversation, I asked another question. (I'm sure that the coffee breaks at the Kivalliq Health Centre have returned to their normalcy since this question man has left town). Today's question concerned the playground and who Victor was.

The staff there told me I probably have seen Victor around town . He's a big framed guy in town. He's in his mid twenties apparently, and spent hours as a child in the play area. He's popular with the younger kids and looks after them when they are playing there. Pushing them higher and farther in the swings, as we all liked to do as children, Victor spends countless hours.

Growing up, he enjoyed the area and loved to play there. In the summer months, this hamlet has almost continuous daylight. It gets twilight for a few short hours around 1 a.m. but is bright again between three and four in the morning. It would be good for those enjoying an early golf game, but it wrecks havoc with sleeping patterns for both adults and children. Blackout curtains were on the bedroom windows of my transient apartment for those reasons.

You can't say "come home when the sun sets" or you'd never see your kids. In the midst of all this, the playground is used extensively in the warmer weather. And Victor is there. A gentle hand helping those who need it and "being there" for everyone else.

You see, Victor is special. He's a special needs kid, who grew up at the playground. That's why its been named after him. I'm sure he is protective of it, nurtures it and cares for those in need. I never met Victor in person while in Rankin Inlet. Perhaps, another day, we may.