Sunday, March 1, 2015

Blizzard...but no D.Q.

The snow and winds affect tracks
“It's five o'clock on a saturday” is how, I remember that song goes. We've made the end of a week (my second full week here in Rankin Inlet) and the end of the month. Friday was payday and all through the Kivalliq Health Centre the talk was the same. It wasn't about the payday 50/50 draw (which I did not win despite buying tickets). For sure, it wasn't about my move to the new accomodations. In fact, it wasn't about what had been planned as social interactions for the coming days.

Being payday week, there is a certain anticipation as to what occurs thereafter. Like many, people here live paycheck to paycheck. There is shopping for food, the paying of bills and general banking to be done. As well, because that GN (Government of NUNAVUT) payday affects the economy in these communities so dramatically, there are two bingos this weekend. So both Friday and Saturday nights will be busy as people play their cards at home, listening to their radios, the speed dial at the ready, in hopes that those precious few seconds eliminate the sharing of the prizes.

The topic started just before noon (as you remember we close from noon to one each week day). As you passed a staff member is was “PSSSST did you hear? Blizzard!!!” or variations on the same theme. It was coming...we had been told. Those prognosticators at ENVIRONMENT CANADA had better get this one right!

Earlier in the week, communities that we serve, had their offices closed partially through the day or did not open, as blizzard warnings had been issued. Schools would have closed early, not because the temperatures had dropped below zero, or that water wasn't available but because of a blizzard in the forecast. The staff had hoped, earlier in the week, that we too would close early and go home...it didn't happen.
The "new" walk to work is a bit longer but the snow reflects light at night.
Friday night I got called back in around 10:30 p.m. The winds had been blowing strong since we had left earlier in the day, and some snow had been falling. It's very hard here to actually tell when it's snowing since the winds blow and the drifts just seem to change position. My new residence is further from my old one and in a different direction. I bundled up for the trek in, went outside and with the wind at my back, hiked to the health centre.

After I had completed what was necessary, I re-bundled for the return trip. I hadn't removed my snow over pants, nor my Sorel winter boots so I slipped on my accessory hood first, attached my face mask, and installed my tightly-knitted wool toque (given to me last time I was here with “TEAM CANADA” knitted around the headband). The down filled coat was zipped up and the velcro hood straps engaged so that the collar protected my face further. Only the slits of my eyes were visible to anyone watching me. I slid on my mitts...my beaver mitts.
Dressed for daylight...warm mittens!

These mitts have performed their expectations without exception. My hands remain warm and toasty in spite of the minus 58C (with wind chill) that my hands have been experiencing. Taking photos I place my mitts in the deep pockets of my coat, remove my hands, take the photos, let the camera drop to its neck strap and replace my hands into the mitts in the pockets. Nice and quick.

As I paused on the “porch” outside the front door of the health centre, preparing to descend the steps, I realized that those winds were now going to be full frontal for the entire trip home. Time to move, I clamoured down the stairs and as another fella moved beside me and jumped into his idling F-150. I gave him a wide berth as the driveway was now polished ice and I didn't want to slide into his vehicle.

What happened next is what is really so amazing about this town and its people. It wouldn't happen across the bay in Iqaluit and many other “larger” towns in the south. If it did, it would be rare indeed. First, people would think twice about climbing into a stranger's vehicle...I did not hesitate. Trust, understanding, and relationships are values here that are still practiced. The attitude is that we are all in this together, so neighbour helps neighbour, not just in time of need, but year round. People in this town have also a certain respect for the health care workers and show it repeatedly. This is but one example.

“Where you going?” he yelled over the howling winds. “Past the drug store” I returned. “Want a ride?” ”Where are you heading?” ”Convenience store” “That's outta your way” “It's OK.” I gave the thumbs up, which is very hard to do with thick mitts, and made my way across the front of the truck to the passenger door and 'climbed aboard'...literally climbed aboard. The heavy duty suspensions of the vehicles here increase the heights of the cabs. It means you grab the hand support by the door frame, place a foot on the door sill and jump and pull yourself into the cab in one motion. I'm starting to get better at it...but not always.

As I climbed in, my first words were “thanks” followed by “wild night”. From him ”storms coming...hope we get a lot of snow”... “why's that?”...“covers the rocks”. Then he explained “prevents damage to the snow machines”...”Going hunting tomorrow?” I asked seeing no other reason you would want to travel out....”no, blizzard tomorrow, hoping for sunday”.

It is totally amazing what you can find out from someone in less then a two block trip. It seems there is a caribou herd heading this way, and the hunters will be going out when the weather breaks. More back and forth when he mentioned his brother had “got” a muskox earlier in this week. Then more info about the muskox that I hadn't known when he said, “The hides are very tough. You have to keep sharpening your knife every three or four cuts.” The things you learn on a friday night here in Rankin Inlet.

We were here. He stopped. I thanked him again and wished him safe hunting and left the warmth of the cab. I never got his name, probably wouldn't recognize him, nor his truck, from the many that are here in town, except for the crunch at the right back door. ”Did that on the garage” he had told me as I had climbed aboard about a half kilo(meter) earlier. As the Ford F-150 sped away, back towards the convenience store, the wind and snow danced. I was home. It was well after 11...with yet another tale to tell.

The next day dawned bright. The elongated clouds blended softly in to the sky blue that I was becoming much more familiar with. I got a call from the health centre just before nine and I said I would be in shortly for the inpatient. I got ready for the day ahead and made my way back to work, the winds much less than the night before. Once my task was finished, I headed to Inns North, a division of the Co-op, where I planned on meeting some others for breakfast. The winds were starting to increase but the sun still shone bright. Past the Northern store where the parking lot was packed, all vehicles running, and last minute selections, needed to ride out the storm, were being purchased.

My residence from 2008 now boarded up
Our Inukshuk--on the way to breakfast
On my way, I stopped just past the hamlet town office. Looking towards the rocky snow covered knoll and our Inukshuk atop, I couldn't help thinking how many storms it had seen since its erection in 1991. Another 50 meters, up the hill, I passed the 'barn', my residence in 2008. It was boarded up, quite sadly, since its condemnation due to mold. Fresh snow from the night before was drifting on the laneway. Past the Co-op entrance and CIBC bank, I turned the corner, was soon inside and ready for breakfast.

As we ordered, we could see out the window, the winds starting to gather more strength and the
The winds starting to blow across Williamson Lake road
blowing snow across Williamson Lake. I went with the “Hunter” again...three eggs over easy, bacon, sausage, rye toast and home fries for $21.95...three mugs of coffee finished the meal...no lunch would be needed. Although the storm was scheduled for noon, unlike many things that happen in the north, it was early.

By the time we were finished, paid up and bundled for transport, the storm was raging. Visibility was 50 to 100 meters and, at times, dropped to half that. Even vehicles with headlights were difficult to see. At the Northern, I was stopping for my final storm supplies and an employee was busy clearing the stairs. Snow machine traffic was substantially reduced and no were target or function specific. Only a few trucks were in the parking lot.
Same Inukshut photo taken 2 hours later
Some pre-storm maintenance on the stairs

Purchases made, were placed in my knapsack, the eggs and bread, my 90 cent apples and my 22 cent cooking oinion. The remainder was placed in a standard grocery bag, no charge for the bag. Once gear in place, it was time to head straight home. Beverly, the grocery clerk, wished me well as I headed out. Down the metal stairs, those efforts of fifteen minutes ago were hardly noticeable. Turned to the left and headed to the corner.

Beauty from the inside...looking out!
The wind had increased now and, as I turned left again on my last leg home, was proceeding directly into it. The final fifty metres and each step...a struggle. Leaning forward to get advantage, the white bag swinging wildly, I kept turning my head so as to watch for any approaching vehicles. I was
walking in their driving lane. This was work...the pace was slow but steady...the goal in sight. I climbed the three steps and was now protected by the plywood cover overhead and the similar sheets on the other two sides.

As I struggled to find my outside key, the door flung open as someone was leaving and the warmth invited me inside. I had made it...intact. Once up the stairs and inside the apartment, I stripped to the waist as my upper body clothes were drenched with sweat from the struggle. I looked out and could barely see the buildings across the street, there was no traffic. I hoped that I wouldn't get called out again as the RCMP had now pulled their vehicles. The Blizzard was here...without a D.Q. in sight!