CHESTERFIELD

Just a few hundred miles down the estuary from Baker Lake towards Hudson Bay is the coastal community of Chesterfield Inlet. The town is small but it used to have a vibrant and important history in the Kivalliq Region of Nunuavut. “Igluligaarjuk” is the Inuktitut word for "place with few houses" and still describes the hamlet today. With a population that has steadily declined in the past ten years from over 350 to just over 300, the reason's are many and mostly economic.

Inuit loading recently arrived supply vessels in early 1900's

This area was always a meeting point for the Inuit people to camp for hunting and for fishing. In those times it was known as Fish Bay. Many Inuit travel to this area each year to continue that tradition.Visitors will find ancient Thule sites nearby where ancient Thule tent rings and animal traps still stand today.

You have to go back to the early exploration of the area. While searching for a 'northwest passage' to China, considerable navigation occurred in the area during the short 'open water' season. This inlet, off Hudson Bay was named “about 1749, after Philip Dormer (Stanhope), 4th Earl of CHESTERFIELD (1694-1773) who was England's Secretary of State from 1746-48.”

From the mid 1800's to the beginning of this century, whalers visited the area regularly and often overwintered here. There are many tales and stories of the mistreatment of the Inuit by the whalers even though they counted on these local inhabitants to hunt for them and to man their whale boats. It was once Hudson's Bay Company's main supply centre for other posts in the area.

At Chesterfield Inlet, the Inuit people often gathered to seek employment or to trade goods. Until the 1950's, Chesterfield Inlet was a major centre north of Churchill, Manitoba. It was the Hudson's Bay Company's main supply centre for other trading posts in the area. It was also the site of the largest RCMP barracks and the largest Roman Catholic mission in the eastern arctic, as well as medical and education centre.

This hamlet has been permanently settled since about 1910, making it one of the oldest of the modern Inuit settlements in the Arctic. When you research the area you find out about the Thule people.... the very early settlers in the area.

Inuit worked for the Whaler's - courtesy New Bedford Whaling Museum

Overall, it appears that the Chesterfield Inlet North West Mounted Police detachment had an extensive area of responsibility. Dog sled and launch fulfilled most transportation needs of the detachment depending upon the time of year. Additional facilities were built for the Chesterfield Inlet detachment in 1949 and 1950. First, two separate quarters were built for Inuit special constables. In the second year, a residence was constructed.

Members of "M" Division RNWMP, Fullerton Harbour, 1905

The Royal Canadian Mounted Police remained an integral part of Chesterfield Inlet until 1963 when the detachment was closed and Chesterfield Inlet was administered from the newly established base at the now growing Rankin Inlet.  In C.I., there is a monument erected dedicated to Mrs Agnes Clay, the wife of Staff Sergeant Sidney G. Clay who was attacked and killed by sled dogs. Their life is worth the read.

North West Mounted Police Barracks

The decline of Chesterfield Inlet was largely economic in nature. In the mid fifties, the rapid growth of the famous at the Rankin Nickel Mine was the main reason for mass exodus. In a few short years, well paying regular, non-governmental jobs served as a beacon for all the communities but, more so for Chesterfield Inlet. 

The nickel mine closed abruptly in Rankin Inlet when the price of nickel suddenly dropped making it uneconomical to mine given the hardships that this climate brings. As the closure devistated that town, so too, the previously prosperous Chesterfield Inlet never recovered thereafter.  

In 2011, the Hudson's Bay Company commemorated its 100th year mark of the 1911 establishment of the Hudson's Bay Company post in Chesterfield Inlet during the early fur-pelt trade industry. 

Editor's note: I have tried to assemble this information from conversations with patients and staff augmented by the websites of the local Hamlet. Some links for photos are available. Many thanks to all. Additional History

Commonly called...B.L.

The “Communities We Serve” series will help acquaint you

The geographical centre of Canada is Baker Lake

with the many communities in the region of KIVALLIQ, the south central part of Nunavut territory. I thought it ftting to start with a focus on the geographical centre of Canada and a hamlet known as Baker Lake (pronounced “Qamani’tuaq” in INUKTITUT). 

While you normally wouldn’t sit down and “google” this village name, there are times, when I’ve had a few minutes, to research these places and hope, in the next few days, to educate with a few facts and interesting features of those communities that we service. I continue to learn about these places. One of the staff related a story, recently, that she was at a conference. The keynote guest speaker, Roberta Bondar (one of Canada’s early astronauts), asked the audience the question, “What is the geographical centre of Canada?” This person was able to answer her question.

We use the short form for many of the communities here and Baker Lake is known around the health centre...simply as B.L. There have been many things that I’ve learned while here in the Arctic at Rankin Inlet. The hamlet of BAKER LAKE sits on its namesake’s lake shore, and has two main stores, a Co-op and a Northern (as well as their respective convenience outlets). Banking is limited, apparently, but most businesses accept charge cards.

1940 Hudson Bay Trading Post currently the Visitior Centre in Baker Lake

The Akumalik Visitors Centre occupies the former HUDSON BAY TRADING POST building which has been kept intact as a replica of a 1940's model complete with fur pelts in the attic and goods to be traded on the shelves. That tradition is consistent with many communities...for almost 350 years.

Inside the trading "Post"

The old Anglican compound is still very evident according to my research. With a town population of some 1800 residents, this location is the only inland settlement in Nunavut Territory (91% of the people are Inuit). Most of the hamlets are coastal and are reached in the summer months by various ships and sealift vessels. Baker Lake is some 320 kilometers west of the Hudson Bay coastline at a point where the Thelon river mouth widens. This is important since supplies are able to come into the river's wide mouth at Chesterfield Inlet and then travel upstream to resupply the hamlet. 

Of course, the RCMP has a detachment there. As well, there is an arena, recreation centre and swimming pool and a health centre. We don't have a swimming pool here inRankin Inlet, it was closed a few years ago...but for the past two summers we do have an artificial turf soccer venue...sure is better than playing on the gravel that it replaced.

Mining and development are active about 70 kilometers north of Baker Lake with a year round 110 km road connecting both the Gold and Uranium mining operations. Over 400 workers are housed and work there, on a rotational basis…flying in and out from the airport strip located there. We are talking big numbers here. Mine estimates show almost 8,500 tonnes of ore processed daily and it's expected to produce 350,000 ounces of gold annually over the 9 year mine life. The Company sees the potential to discover 5,000,000 ounces of gold at Meadowbank and continue the mine life well beyond 2019. They expect to employ 450 people with over 40% coming from the local communities.

Along the shoreline near the town are apparently a series of huts and sheds providing shelter to winter and summer gear for the local population. Three rivers flow into the actual lake, and the lake is then connected to Chesterfield Inlet (shortened by everyone to plain…Chesterfield) on the shores of Hudson Bay. This provides a means of access in the summer months for barges to bring equipment, gasoline and fuel oil for the town folk. Fuel oil, in all these communities, provides the vital link in generating electric power, used extensively for heat and light…and it gets delivered once a year so you had better order the right amount.

The following is taken from the local website and describes the people and area so well…why re-invent the wheel. “In a land which has seen the comings and goings of thousands of seasons, it's in the travels and adventures of the people that the story is told. For the Inuit, history is more a matter of

The Arts and Crafts of the Inuit of Baker Lake

place than it is of time. It is the memory of the changing of the seasons, and nomadic journeys following the migrations of the animals that made life possible for them. The Inuit sense of tradition flows from the memories of the places they've camped for generations: places where the caribou were plentiful and the fishing was good.”

Artwork and handicrafts are two methods of retaining the rich culture and heritage of the Inuit people. Carvings, paintings, and wall hangings are famous from this area. Beaded work takes years to perfect.

Hunting and fishing depicted in artworks

Arctic tourism is a term used extensively now as more people flock to the north and see for themselves what this beautiful, natural setting is all about. They come to canoe and hike, or to hunt and fish, all the time taking in the sights and sounds of this land. Whether by boat or canoe, by quad or snow machine, movement across the land continues. In fact, the term “Nunavut” (of which this territory is named) when translated into English from the native INUKTITUT language really means “OUR LAND”. It will be interesting to see how the past can mesh with the present and still maintain those INUK traditions.

So for those adventurous souls who would like to visit Baker Lake, fly to Winnipeg, take a plane north to Rankin Inlet and 14 hours of hard snowmobiling later you will arrive at the community of Baker Lake...the lakes will be froze and safe until early May, so you still have some time to book! It's -35C today...so dress warm!

Editor's note: Unlike my other postings, I have no images directly from the area so my thanks for the use of these photos from Baker Lake Community Economic Development's website.

Monday Suds

Monday morning blues, whites, darks...permapress...the list goes on. Having been 'on call' the 2 previous weeks meant no time to do the clothes, just in case I might get recalled back to work. I wouldn't want to leave them and find them not available to me.

Monday morning the weather is improving!!!

I had decided that Monday would be wash night...simply because the cupboard was getting bare. The previous week, one of the nurses, had offered the washer and drier in her unit, I took her up on the offer since if I'd get called in...at least the laundry was secure..Eight days later, it was time, once again.

As I mentioned earlier, we had a storm most of the weekend. Starting as predicted at noon on saturday, it raged through to the wee hours of monday morning (-58 with the wind chill and winds gusting to 68 km/hr). I'm getting very used to this...cancellations and re-bookings are a way of life, here in Rankin Inlet and most of the north. We are so heavily dependent on the air traffic it is quite interesting but at the same time quite frightening as you realize the consequences of that vital link...and the outcome should flights not be available.

Snow Covered Quad!

Sunday evening just prior to supper, I got a call to come in. I arrived after “a stroll”...through the blustery gale force winds to find my patient in the ER room. Conveniently, my xray room is right next to it and has an adjoining “en suite” entrance. It's very convenient. We finished our filming and returned him to his room. My first actual multiple trauma. Most accidents happen at home, as did his. The ambulance had picked him up at his residence and delivered him to us.

We did our job, arrangements for his care meant we would be transferring him. The cards were dealt for an medevac out to Winnipeg. He was soon ready for transport...but the planes were not flying. He was bedded down and preparations were made so that safe transfer could occur once the storm broke. He was off the ground around 3 a.m., would be arriving about 6 a.m. and be at the hospital by 7 a.m.

Our bay window was "painted" by the storm

You can hear planes taking off and landing, if you listen, at various times of day...mostly when you are outside. The larger planes can be heard when you are standing inside near a window (and the TV

is off). I'm starting to know some of the scheduled times and glance out the windows when those times are near. The airport is not three minutes by truck from the centre of town and I could walk there from my apartment...we'll see what the weekend weather has in store.

I would like to get out this weekend and take some photos at the other end of town. There are a couple of images, I would like to capture, but I need the weather's cooperation to achieve success. One thing that is dependable is we will have weather...what kind...well, it's just a matter of time. We have almost a full moon rising about 4 p.m. from “out the bay”, as the sun is setting about 75 minutes later in the west.

As the weather improves, the traffic increases

As the weather has improved so has the traffic on all level, quads, trucks, SUVs and snow machines. Most of the community has taken the time to dig out their ramps, steps, parking lots. Amazing how extension cords keep working their way to the surface of the snow....and the maintenance guys and gals here have to defrost and warm things outside BEFORE they can even attempt repairs.

Inside is a different story. The buildings here have windows that open outwards usually...not vertical or side sliders. I'm told that the summer months here are even more spectacular as the hill where the inukshuk stands is completely lined with violet coloured flowers. Even with the changing seasons, air conditioning is not something that is normally required. The heat in buildings does not stop in the summer apparently, just the windows open and there are screens so there must be flying critters...more research on this is definitely needed.

No drive through here..the window would be frozen shut!

So time to fold the laundry. Best entertainment valued at $1 per load to wash and $1.25 to dry, here in our apartment building. Cheapest thing I've bought in Rankin Inlet, to date, is three loads, washed and dried for $6.75. It almost cost that much for three coffees the other day at the local Tim's. The advantage at Tim's is I got to a chance to roll the rim....PLEASE PAY AGAIN!...sorry.... Please PLAY Again!....at least I already won a $25 Gift card the second day of the contest... online...at home, this year!
                               Hope you did even better!

Blizzard...but no D.Q.

The snow and winds affect tracks

“It's five o'clock on a saturday” is how, I remember that song goes. We've made the end of a week (my second full week here in Rankin Inlet) and the end of the month. Friday was payday and all through the Kivalliq Health Centre the talk was the same. It wasn't about the payday 50/50 draw (which I did not win despite buying tickets). For sure, it wasn't about my move to the new accomodations. In fact, it wasn't about what had been planned as social interactions for the coming days.

Being payday week, there is a certain anticipation as to what occurs thereafter. Like many, people here live paycheck to paycheck. There is shopping for food, the paying of bills and general banking to be done. As well, because that GN (Government of NUNAVUT) payday affects the economy in these communities so dramatically, there are two bingos this weekend. So both Friday and Saturday nights will be busy as people play their cards at home, listening to their radios, the speed dial at the ready, in hopes that those precious few seconds eliminate the sharing of the prizes.

The topic started just before noon (as you remember we close from noon to one each week day). As you passed a staff member is was “PSSSST did you hear? Blizzard!!!” or variations on the same theme. It was coming...we had been told. Those prognosticators at ENVIRONMENT CANADA had better get this one right!

Earlier in the week, communities that we serve, had their offices closed partially through the day or did not open, as blizzard warnings had been issued. Schools would have closed early, not because the temperatures had dropped below zero, or that water wasn't available but because of a blizzard in the forecast. The staff had hoped, earlier in the week, that we too would close early and go home...it didn't happen.

The "new" walk to work is a bit longer but the snow reflects light at night.

Friday night I got called back in around 10:30 p.m. The winds had been blowing strong since we had left earlier in the day, and some snow had been falling. It's very hard here to actually tell when it's snowing since the winds blow and the drifts just seem to change position. My new residence is further from my old one and in a different direction. I bundled up for the trek in, went outside and with the wind at my back, hiked to the health centre.

After I had completed what was necessary, I re-bundled for the return trip. I hadn't removed my snow over pants, nor my Sorel winter boots so I slipped on my accessory hood first, attached my face mask, and installed my tightly-knitted wool toque (given to me last time I was here with “TEAM CANADA” knitted around the headband). The down filled coat was zipped up and the velcro hood straps engaged so that the collar protected my face further. Only the slits of my eyes were visible to anyone watching me. I slid on my mitts...my beaver mitts.

Dressed for daylight...warm mittens!

These mitts have performed their expectations without exception. My hands remain warm and toasty in spite of the minus 58C (with wind chill) that my hands have been experiencing. Taking photos I place my mitts in the deep pockets of my coat, remove my hands, take the photos, let the camera drop to its neck strap and replace my hands into the mitts in the pockets. Nice and quick.

As I paused on the “porch” outside the front door of the health centre, preparing to descend the steps, I realized that those winds were now going to be full frontal for the entire trip home. Time to move, I clamoured down the stairs and as another fella moved beside me and jumped into his idling F-150. I gave him a wide berth as the driveway was now polished ice and I didn't want to slide into his vehicle.

What happened next is what is really so amazing about this town and its people. It wouldn't happen across the bay in Iqaluit and many other “larger” towns in the south. If it did, it would be rare indeed. First, people would think twice about climbing into a stranger's vehicle...I did not hesitate. Trust, understanding, and relationships are values here that are still practiced. The attitude is that we are all in this together, so neighbour helps neighbour, not just in time of need, but year round. People in this town have also a certain respect for the health care workers and show it repeatedly. This is but one example.

“Where you going?” he yelled over the howling winds. “Past the drug store” I returned. “Want a ride?” ”Where are you heading?” ”Convenience store” “That's outta your way” “It's OK.” I gave the thumbs up, which is very hard to do with thick mitts, and made my way across the front of the truck to the passenger door and 'climbed aboard'...literally climbed aboard. The heavy duty suspensions of the vehicles here increase the heights of the cabs. It means you grab the hand support by the door frame, place a foot on the door sill and jump and pull yourself into the cab in one motion. I'm starting to get better at it...but not always.

As I climbed in, my first words were “thanks” followed by “wild night”. From him ”storms coming...hope we get a lot of snow”... “why's that?”...“covers the rocks”. Then he explained “prevents damage to the snow machines”...”Going hunting tomorrow?” I asked seeing no other reason you would want to travel out....”no, blizzard tomorrow, hoping for sunday”.

It is totally amazing what you can find out from someone in less then a two block trip. It seems there is a caribou herd heading this way, and the hunters will be going out when the weather breaks. More back and forth when he mentioned his brother had “got” a muskox earlier in this week. Then more info about the muskox that I hadn't known when he said, “The hides are very tough. You have to keep sharpening your knife every three or four cuts.” The things you learn on a friday night here in Rankin Inlet.

We were here. He stopped. I thanked him again and wished him safe hunting and left the warmth of the cab. I never got his name, probably wouldn't recognize him, nor his truck, from the many that are here in town, except for the crunch at the right back door. ”Did that on the garage” he had told me as I had climbed aboard about a half kilo(meter) earlier. As the Ford F-150 sped away, back towards the convenience store, the wind and snow danced. I was home. It was well after 11...with yet another tale to tell.

The next day dawned bright. The elongated clouds blended softly in to the sky blue that I was becoming much more familiar with. I got a call from the health centre just before nine and I said I would be in shortly for the inpatient. I got ready for the day ahead and made my way back to work, the winds much less than the night before. Once my task was finished, I headed to Inns North, a division of the Co-op, where I planned on meeting some others for breakfast. The winds were starting to increase but the sun still shone bright. Past the Northern store where the parking lot was packed, all vehicles running, and last minute selections, needed to ride out the storm, were being purchased.

My residence from 2008 now boarded up

Our Inukshuk--on the way to breakfast

On my way, I stopped just past the hamlet town office. Looking towards the rocky snow covered knoll and our Inukshuk atop, I couldn't help thinking how many storms it had seen since its erection in 1991. Another 50 meters, up the hill, I passed the 'barn', my residence in 2008. It was boarded up, quite sadly, since its condemnation due to mold. Fresh snow from the night before was drifting on the laneway. Past the Co-op entrance and CIBC bank, I turned the corner, was soon inside and ready for breakfast.

As we ordered, we could see out the window, the winds starting to gather more strength and the

The winds starting to blow across Williamson Lake road

blowing snow across Williamson Lake. I went with the “Hunter” again...three eggs over easy, bacon, sausage, rye toast and home fries for $21.95...three mugs of coffee finished the meal...no lunch would be needed. Although the storm was scheduled for noon, unlike many things that happen in the north, it was early.

By the time we were finished, paid up and bundled for transport, the storm was raging. Visibility was 50 to 100 meters and, at times, dropped to half that. Even vehicles with headlights were difficult to see. At the Northern, I was stopping for my final storm supplies and an employee was busy clearing the stairs. Snow machine traffic was substantially reduced and no were target or function specific. Only a few trucks were in the parking lot.

Same Inukshut photo taken 2 hours later

Some pre-storm maintenance on the stairs

Purchases made, were placed in my knapsack, the eggs and bread, my 90 cent apples and my 22 cent cooking oinion. The remainder was placed in a standard grocery bag, no charge for the bag. Once gear in place, it was time to head straight home. Beverly, the grocery clerk, wished me well as I headed out. Down the metal stairs, those efforts of fifteen minutes ago were hardly noticeable. Turned to the left and headed to the corner.

Beauty from the inside...looking out!

The wind had increased now and, as I turned left again on my last leg home, was proceeding directly into it. The final fifty metres and each step...a struggle. Leaning forward to get advantage, the white bag swinging wildly, I kept turning my head so as to watch for any approaching vehicles. I was
walking in their driving lane. This was work...the pace was slow but steady...the goal in sight. I climbed the three steps and was now protected by the plywood cover overhead and the similar sheets on the other two sides.

As I struggled to find my outside key, the door flung open as someone was leaving and the warmth invited me inside. I had made it...intact. Once up the stairs and inside the apartment, I stripped to the waist as my upper body clothes were drenched with sweat from the struggle. I looked out and could barely see the buildings across the street, there was no traffic. I hoped that I wouldn't get called out again as the RCMP had now pulled their vehicles. The Blizzard was here...without a D.Q. in sight!

Michael’s Last Day

The 15 foot Inukshuk quietly stands guard over the town since 1991

 Have you ever gone somewhere and recognized a face, tried to put a name or place to that face…and failed? Then later, when all is calm and quiet…you get that “EUREKA” moment and realize the where, the when, or the who.

Such has been the case these past two weeks. As my time here has lengthened and new introductions have slowed, I have searched my grey cells for snipits of info.  Surprisingly, I’ve had quite a few “eurekas” for several reasons.

I brought a collection of photos with me from my visit here in 2008. The reason being, I wanted to scout around town and record the “then” and “now” differences. On a slow evening, after the blog has been put to bed…I’ve had a chance to relive those memories and have been amazed as to what I do recall. 

My second Saturday, this trip, I was invited to Saturday breakfast at INNS NORTH with a group. We met outside the building, having huddled, then hiked, through the blowing snow that day, to sit and relax. We enjoyed each other’s company and the meal (one without self-preparation for a change). I was able to get an update on the changes occurring in the hamlet, the opening of the mine and what changes had occurred at the KIVALLIQ HEALTH CENTRE.

The Hunter's Special--$21.95 plus Coffee adds $2.95

We had discussed changes in staffing, resources, equipment and personnel…got updates on staff members that I had remembered…those grey cells kicking in again and again. It’s been a bit of a roller coaster ride trying to remember and place the people…they are starting to remember me. Our coffee breaks have been an interesting combination of northern stories…the Inuit and northern culture and events. While the terms I am learning about, my Inuktitut language skills STILL remain poor. Marie smiles when I try to pronounce some of my patient’s names. She is very polite and I wonder to myself what is she really thinking. In true INUK fashion, the listening and thinking occur much more than the speaking.

She has been a great source of information about the culture, the history and food habits of the native people. After hearing these tales, I‘ve decided that some of the delicacies that she describes of “country food” are not for me. Between cases, we’ve had the opportunity to share some stories of our families and lives and experiences, both in the radiography room and outside. I think she knows everyone in town…and they her. She seems well respected by the staff in the building…she is a definite asset, as they would say.

She is one, of but many, that work here. Some of the staff that were here in 2008 have moved off to do other things. Susie, the newly engaged nurse at that time, is now in Iqaluit, working in community health with a couple of kids. There are others who are working in other government agencies and offices in town. Then this week, while being called back into the health center one evening, I met Michael.

Michael works the ambulance in town. Not sure if he’s a volunteer with the fire service or an employee. He and his female co-worker had just arrived from the airport, providing transport from there to the health centre for a recently arrived “medevac transfer” from one of our outlying communities. This is common here. What we can’t handle gets air shipped to Winnipeg. What other communities can’t handle gets shipped to us. The people, providing this service, are important and a necessary component in the delivery of health care to the entire KIVALLIQ region of Nunavut.

The heated and enclosed ambulance bay

Michael and his partner had been busy and the night was still young…he was frustrated and needed to vent. I listened…asked a couple of questions and then reinforced his importance to the community as we discussed some of the cases, situations and events he had seen in his many years working the “bus”. He told me that he was going to resign on Friday…that he was “fed up” and the frustration poured forth. He was tired of dealing with the shootings, assaults, drunks, car and snow machine accidents and all manner of things that emergency services entail…more so, probably, in these smaller hamlets.

I told him that he was needed…who would fulfill his job…and agreed that we all have times where we want to “pack it in”...but then “what would we do?”…and, more important in a tightly knit community, “who” would take over? I told him not to be rash in his decision...to really seriously think about it…and hopefully we would be able to talk again in the next few days.

What I didn’t tell MICHAEL…was that he looked familiar and I tried to remember where and when I had seen him in 2008. It took the better part of a day or more...and then I remembered.  He had been part of the ambulance team that had rushed in a patient after school, one weekday around 4:30 in the afternoon. Try as we might, the medical team was unsuccessful in the teen’s resuscitation and he died. The hanging had been a success…another tragedy that this community was about to endure. I didn’t tell Michael that he was also one of the drivers that took the young lad in his coffin to the church. (The ambulance also served as a hearse when necessary, back in those days).

In 2008, I didn’t attend the teenager’s funeral that Saturday at the larger of the two churches in town (we now have three). I didn’t want to seem nosy and instead I wandered around trying to acquaint myself with the village and its layout. I had soon found myself on a small roadway on a hill above town, when I noticed fresh tire tracks in the snow, then lots of footprints. Before me was the town cemetery, an hour after the internment had been completed. No one else was there, just wind and snow. A green cross with his name, Date of Birth, and his D.O.D. marked the fresh grave. I remember the grave completely encircled by small rocks.

A family heading "out" after work on Friday afternoon

Back to the present, I wondered how many times that and similar situations, Michael had experienced since my last visit here to Rankin Inlet. It was then that I understood his concern, frustration, and perhaps, momentary despair. A couple of days later when I saw Michael, I had waved and got the return wave down the hall. When I had completed my task at hand, I wandered down to the ambulance “bay”…where Michael was cleaning the vehicle. I noticed it and complimented him on their shiny new “white cube” that they were now operating and asked him how long had it been here. A couple of years, he responded. I told him it was quite a change from the red painted truck I remembered. It was good to see that positive changes in the infrastructure here were staring to show.

When I mentioned that his “Friday” was coming soon and asked about his “decision”…he smiled and said he had talked it over with his wife…and that he would be staying on. I knew then that this community was still in good hands. It was not yet Michael’s last day!

A 24 Hour Change

Returning after lunch with my sun glasses...and no hood today!

There is nothing so constant as change, they say….who they is….who knows? The north is no different and the best example of such change is the difference of today’s weather…from that of yesterday.

At 0730 hours yesterday morning the bright ball of sunshine was well above the horizon with a few clouds and was closely followed within the half hour by a dense cloud cover that had obliterated it. This was followed within the next hour by howling winds that by the lunch had closed government buildings in other communities. My colleagues, here at the health centre, fully expected that we would close, as well, and that the schools would dismiss early. That didn’t happen.

Our snow dusted shovel

We work normally til 5 p.m. and it was bitterly cold blowing winds that I faced walking home. Marie was luckier as the wind was at her back…but she has further to go. When I was called back to work, after 7 p.m., those strong bitter winds seemed stronger than ever, and…well, let’s just say it was nice to get back home…and not have to leave that warmth for the rest of the night. Those howling winds continued through all the night. Even with the swirling snow on the ground we often, see the sun, the moon and the stars. Our moon is really a half moon now, it’s much higher in the sky, and is setting later at night just around midnight. By early morning, the wind had dropped.

Unused truck covered in a dusting from the night before...An open window!

Open treaded stairs

0720 this a.m. The red disc was bright and strong and the clear blue sky was a major change from a windswept landscape of the previous day. In the early morning light, you could see for miles out onto “the land”…probably the best visibility since my arrival two weeks ago. Walking into work, the snow had a crispness to it and scrunched underfoot. The snow drifts here can support your weight since the snow actually blows together causing them to be more hard packed. We don’t seem to have those fluffier deposits that I’m used to in the south. There was the warmth of sunlight on my face and the reflection of the snow made me make a mental note to get my sunglasses when I returned home at lunch.

The early morning frost & snow combo

Leaving the building for lunch, the sun was at my back but you could feel its strength around you…and the bonus was that there was no wind. The snow had been blown around last night. It
covered the trucks that had not moved this morning. The snow shovel outside my residence was still covered at noon and our steps remained snow covered as well. Buildings here are built upon metal pilings driven deep into the permafrost layers…and are usually open underneath...but well insulated and on those metal stilts. That results in steps and ramps as you enter any public (and many private) buildings.

Decking, steps and ramps are all open, grated and usually made of steel…so the snow will actually pass through the cracks, as it were, and don’t become an icy hazard. The buildup of snow and ice, even if it occurs, is much less then it would be on solid wood planks. If you don’t like heights…then don’t look down. I can only imagine what it would be like in the summer months. 

Noon hour activity on the back lot

With my camera in hand, I marvelled at how warm it felt in the lee of the stairwell, a protected entranceway. I turned and looked back over the open field that appears to be a major thoroughfare behind the health centre. Two or three snow machines whizzed by….and I could hear some dogs were barking (few had been heard previously), and sets of people were walking instead of single hikers.

Where did all the snow go?

I climbed my stairs just as a swosh of ice and snow fell off the window ledge a few feet away. It had been warmed by the sun and the combination of reflection off the metal siding of the building and the reflected heat from the window glass had caused it to melt and slip to the ground. The window next to it had been cranked open to get some fresh air. A couple of kids were just goofing in the snow and decided to show off their snowball fight armament…they were smiling. A definite change had taken place in the past 24 hours…I looked at my I-phone and checked the date again…it was February 26th...but it felt so much...like SPRING!!!!

Like a rock!

It’s blowing snow today…again. After another incredible sunrise, the clouds quickly thickened and

The snow is swirling again!

...but it started out...so nice!

closed in. The winds picked up and the snow started to blow around. Just before lunch we found out that the Repluse Bay government offices were closed. Our staff is hoping we will be closed this afternoon as well. Amid the blowing snowscape, the sun was trying to poke through, visibility was reduced and planes were grounded. Local truck traffic continued as though nothing was wrong.

“Like a rock” was a line in the Chevy pickup commercials a few years back. Since my trip in 2008, the town has grown in size. As we leave the Health Centre at 5 p.m., I have seen vehicles, sometimes 4 and 5 deep waiting at the 4-way stop intersections. I wonder to myself, if this growth continues, will traffic lights be far behind? There is much more traffic on our roadways...mostly extended cab pickups but SUVs and vans are seen quite often.  I would expect that most are the 4-wheel drive variety and all major truck manufacturers are included in the mix, but I’ve yet to see a Lexus or Mercedes. Some larger delivery vehicles are also present to ship goods to the stores and services around town.

While many of the vehicles boast the familiar GN (Government of Nunavut) Polar Bear logo on their side, many more are private and the remainder is business centric. The colours can vary…but their
function is clear…transportation of goods and people. Fluffy’s Taxi service seems to have a least 6 to 8 vehicles in its fleet...all are extended double seaters…and provide access to the many without.

The new taxis...a combo of SUV's and Extended cabs

Rankin Inlet has no roads connecting us directly to the south. You can drive here…you just can’t drive...TO HERE! The only ice winter ice road here is the one on the television. Everything…and I do mean everything…is either airlifted in or travels here by barge, container or inside the hulls of various watercraft. This time of year there is no water transportation as the outside temperature, since I arrived, has been -24C on the warmest of my days. Hudson’s Bay and the actual inlet are covered by up to 7 feet of ice…with less in the areas of any current (e.g. from a river flowing underneath). While the snow acts an insulator, it tends to blow off the open areas of the ice which results in its thickness.

You might wonder how so many vehicles have arrived. Many have taken the train to Churchill from Winnipeg and are then loaded onto barges or placed inside containers and arrive to the dock area here on the Hudson Bay coastline. Others may have been shipped from Montreal by ship container or tug and barge and have travelled up the east coast of Quebec and Labrador, through the various passages, once traversed by the early arctic explorers in wooden ships. Those same waterways are now used today by larger ships navigating with GPS and radar to deliver their cargo safely. The coastal communities rely on this method extensively in the warmer months to survive the bitter months of winter.

Oil and gas supplies arrive by both barge and tanker. The various grades of fuel are used locally by the planes, trucks, quads, snow machines and cars.

The storage tanks at the power generation station

Oil is for our heating and used in the generation of electric power, so necessary for our daily survival. I’m told regular gas is $1.20 a litre here in Rankin Inlet with the price being set upon delivery. In Niagara, today’s CHCH broadcast (available on our TV satellite system) showed currently a price of $1.04 and that’s down from the 1.32-1.36 high of last year. The lowest I paid this winter at home was around 81.9 cents and that seemed to vanish rather quickly.

A visit, to any of the local stores, often show their parking areas filled with all manner of vehicles…all with their engines left running…not at the airport or any of the coffee shops or restaurants since people usually remain in those places longer. You don’t see the snow machines running, so much, but one does notice the quads,  trucks and SUV’s all running in the minus temperatures to recharge batteries (in spite of many vehicles being plugged in at night) and to warm their soon-to-be-occupied interiors.

Some staff, even leave our building for a few moments, to start their cars and then return to finish

The Upper and Lower parking lots have electrical power for the block heaters

their shifts, knowing that their vehicles will not only be a little warmer on the way home after work, but will have enough cranking power for the next morning as well.  Trips around town tend to be shorter so the extra run time helps the engine overall as it temporarily warms the oil. Block heaters are common as are extension cords and electrical connections in parking areas. Outside my hotel window in Winnipeg, I had noted two rows of cars all plugged in for the overnight period. In the parking lot of the KIVALLIQ HEALTH CENTRE, there are some connections as well.

We have lots of parking available…it’s also free.  It’s not uncommon to see staff arriving and

My associate, Marie, heading off for lunch last week

departing in all manner of vehicles. While many walk to and from, on some of these blustery days, a ride is always welcomed. Quads, snow machines, trucks, cabs, and SUV’s all fill our parking areas with not a bicycle in sight (this time of year).

In this part of the country, the pickups tend to be the larger and heavier models, leaving me to wonder. Come spring, as this navigation season begins, will Rankin Inlet see any of those new all-aluminum Ford pickups arrive? Will they be accepted…or will people feel that they may be too light…too tough to handle on the icy roads and parking areas. Perhaps, they may blow around in these heavy arctic winds…unlike “a rock”!

STAY WARM…STAY SAFE!